Medically reviewed by Dr Sin Yong · Last reviewed · 10 min read · Assessed personally by Dr Sin Yong · Jump to questions
A naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid used for acne, rosacea and pigmentation, with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and pigment-modulating effects.
WhatsApp Dr Sin Yong →Azelaic acid is a topical acid used for acne, rosacea and pigmentation such as melasma and post-acne marks. In Singapore, lower-strength cosmetic products are sold over the counter, while the medicated 20% cream is a prescription-only medicine. It works gradually, is usually well tolerated apart from early tingling, and is used alongside daily sunscreen.
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid produced naturally by the yeast Malassezia and made synthetically for skincare and medicines. It reduces the growth of acne bacteria, normalises how cells line the pore, and calms inflammation, which is why it is used in acne and in the papules and pustules of rosacea. It also inhibits tyrosinase and preferentially affects overactive melanocytes, so it can lighten melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation without bleaching normal skin. It does not increase sun sensitivity in the way retinoids can, and it does not contribute to antibiotic resistance. Mild tingling on first use is common and usually settles. [1]

“It does not increase sun sensitivity in the way retinoids can, and it does not contribute to antibiotic resistance.”
Dr Sin YongOn why azelaic acid is chosen
A Cochrane systematic review found azelaic acid more effective than placebo for acne, though the certainty of evidence was low to moderate. Randomised trials support 15% gel for papulopustular rosacea, and comparative trials in melasma suggest 20% azelaic acid performs similarly to 4% hydroquinone in several studies, with variable quality. Reviews describe a favourable safety profile, with stinging and itching as the main side effects.
People with a known allergy to azelaic acid or the product's base should avoid it. Those with very sensitive skin or active eczema may find the tingling uncomfortable. Rarely, lightening of skin in darker skin types has been reported, so watch for patchy change. Pregnancy use should be discussed with a doctor, although it is often considered a lower-risk option.
It depends on strength and product. Medicated azelaic acid creams and gels at 15–20% are regulated as medicines in Singapore; the 20% cream is listed as a prescription-only medicine on the National Drug Formulary, so it is obtained through a doctor. Lower-strength azelaic acid or its derivatives appear in some cosmetic products. Check with a doctor or pharmacist which category a product belongs to.
If a dark patch, breakout or irritation is not responding to what you are using, the next step is a diagnosis rather than another product. See the Skin A–Z library for related ingredients.
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A naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid used for acne, rosacea and pigmentation, with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and pigment-modulating effects.
People with a known allergy to azelaic acid or the product's base should avoid it. Those with very sensitive skin or active eczema may find the tingling uncomfortable. Rarely, lightening of skin in darker skin types has been reported, so watch for patchy change. Pregnancy use should be discussed with a doctor, although it is often considered a lower-risk option.
It is commonly paired with Sunscreen, niacinamide, gentle moisturisers, tranexamic acid; can be used alongside retinoids with care; introduce one new active at a time and stop if irritation develops.
Medically reviewed by Dr Sin Yong, MBBS (NUS), MRCS (Edinburgh) · Last updated 7 September 2026 · Editorial policy
Azelaic acid and niacinamide do different jobs, so the choice depends on the problem rather than on which is stronger. Azelaic acid is the more targeted of the two: it acts on acne bacteria, on the way cells line the pore, on inflammation and on overactive pigment cells. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that supports the skin barrier and reduces the transfer of pigment to surface cells.
For acne, the papules of rosacea, melasma or post-acne marks, azelaic acid has the stronger evidence, with trials of the medicated strengths in each. For a sensitised barrier, mild redness or slightly uneven tone, niacinamide is often the gentler starting point.
They are not competitors and are commonly used together. A typical pairing is azelaic acid at one time of day and a niacinamide moisturiser at another, with sunscreen every morning. Introducing one new active at a time makes it easier to tell which one is responsible if irritation develops.
If a dark patch or breakout has not responded to either after a reasonable trial, the next step is a diagnosis rather than a third product, because some pigment sits too deep for any topical to reach.
Azelaic acid can lighten pigment that comes from overactive melanocytes, such as melasma and the dark marks left after acne, but it works slowly and cannot reach every type of pigment. It inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that makes melanin, and acts preferentially on overactive pigment cells, so it does not bleach normal skin.
Comparative trials in melasma suggest that 20% azelaic acid performs similarly to 4% hydroquinone in several studies, although the quality of that evidence varies. It is often chosen for skin that does not tolerate stronger lighteners, and because it does not increase sun sensitivity in the way retinoids can.
What it cannot do is shift pigment lying deep in the dermis, such as Hori's naevus, or keep pigment away without sun protection. In Singapore's climate, ultraviolet and visible light keep stimulating melanin, so daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is part of any plan that includes azelaic acid.
Rarely, lightening of the surrounding skin has been reported in darker skin types, so patchy change is worth reporting. Where pigment has not responded, the type is diagnosed before laser or prescription treatment is considered.
| Option | What it does | What it cannot do | Typical recovery | Who it tends to suit |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Azelaic acid (medicated 15–20%, or lower-strength cosmetic products) | Calms inflammation, reduces acne bacteria, normalises the pore lining and inhibits tyrosinase in overactive pigment cells | Clear deep dermal pigment quickly or replace sun protection | Applied at home; tingling or itching on first use is common and usually settles | Acne, the papules of rosacea, and melasma or post-acne marks, including skin that does not tolerate stronger lighteners |
| Niacinamide | Supports the skin barrier and reduces the transfer of pigment to surface skin cells, with a mild calming effect | Act on acne bacteria or match the evidence base of medicated pigment treatments | Applied at home; usually well tolerated, with occasional flushing or irritation | Barrier support and mildly uneven tone; often layered with azelaic acid |
| Hydroquinone (prescription medicine) | Strongly inhibits melanin production | Be used indefinitely without supervision | Used under medical supervision; irritation is possible | Melasma or stubborn pigmentation within a doctor's plan |
| Topical retinoids | Normalise cell turnover in the pore and speed the shedding of pigmented surface cells | Calm rosacea; they can irritate and increase sun sensitivity, and are avoided in pregnancy | Applied at home; dryness and peeling in the early weeks | Acne and texture, with pigment as a secondary target |
| Tranexamic acid | Interferes with signals that stimulate pigment cells; used mainly for melasma | Treat acne; the oral form needs a doctor's assessment and prescription | Topical forms are usually well tolerated; oral use is medically reviewed | Melasma, often alongside azelaic acid and sunscreen |
| Pico laser (in clinic) | Fragments pigment in the skin with very short pulses | Treat acne or replace daily sunscreen | Varies with settings and skin type; discussed before treatment | Pigment that topical treatment has not shifted, once its type has been diagnosed |
Azelaic acid appears on Annex II of the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive, the list of substances cosmetics must not contain, so it is not a cosmetic ingredient in Singapore. It is supplied as a therapeutic product: the registered 20% cream is classified by the HSA as a prescription-only medicine, obtained through a doctor. Serums marketed online as 'cosmetic' azelaic acid do not fit the local framework. A doctor assesses whether acne, rosacea or pigmentation is the real concern before prescribing, and chooses the strength and vehicle accordingly. Source.